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trinketmonsterr · 8 months
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Paris Fashion Week 23' Debrief
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From left to right, top row followed by bottom, I have selected my four favorite looks after reviewing those who showed for Paris Fashion Week 23'.
Look one: Issey Miyake Spring 2024 RTW (Look 20) by Satoshi Kondo
This is something I would wear everyday if I could. An iconic Japanese silhouette, with a long top or dress reaching a mid thigh, either paired with a wide leg trouser or straight tailored long skirt. I also adore asymmetrical sleeves and ruching around the hips, providing the body contour and definition.
Collection Notes: Aside from this look, the whole collection was so special and meaningful after the passing of Miyake just last summer. It was an homage to Miyake's iconic Spring 1998, beginning as a quite literal, almost replication of some of the gowns. 98' was unforgettable; it was as if the models were trying to escape the sheer veiled gowns they were clothed in, posing with their limbs and faces completely covered and restricted. Kondo could not have delivered a more beautiful and timely tribute.
Look two: Marni Spring 2024 RTW (Look 14) by Francesco Risso
I will always fall head over heels for a mini dress that has a fit and cut like this. In some ways, this look reminds me of early Prada, simple girly (yet chic) silhouettes and plaid motifs, but what's new is the mini v-neck, giving a sporty edge. If you look closely at the shoes, you'll see a white leather ballet flat with embossed ribbon-style bows, which obviously I want on my feet right now. This entire look. Right now. As for the rest of the collection? A total skip.
Look three: Loewe Spring 2024 RTW (Look 21) by Jonathan Anderson
The more I look at this, the more I drool over an asymmetrical tutu-skirt paired with a cherry-red plaid collared shirt. Not to mention a cashmere (I'm guessing) moss green sweater tying a fresh and exciting color palette together. The mules, I can skip. Same with the bag, I'm all good. Not to say both are not showing Loewe though, or speaking to Jonathan Anderson's very specific design language. I liked every variation of this look.
Collection notes: Super high-waisted trousers were also a sight to see, paired with the same buttoned-to-the-top collared shirts. The collection wasn't loose or relaxed in anyway, however, it also wasn't uptight, despite blazers with pockets in restraining positions and large-knit sweaters missing armholes. There were even gold belts made out of nails, going through leather shorts, and yet somehow, Anderson creates equilibrium between the slouchy and over-refined.
Look four: Prada Spring 2024 RTW (Look 37) by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simmons
Out of about five favorites, I decided on this look because I believe it best encompasses something I would choose to put on, and includes my favorite highlight from the show; fringe. It's not just fringe though. Its beaded fringe, and in other parts of the collection metallic and printed fringe, even fringe to create collars on shirts! The choice of throwing a clunky leather jacket over is just good juxtaposition, matched with black patent leather pumps. Get this look on somebody cool now.
Collection Notes: My personal highlights were specifically shoulder draping, eclectic fringe (as mentioned,) fluffy pastel layered mesh, and classic Prada embellishments such as punched-out metal holes in various sizes. There were however a few floral patterns I absolutely despised, so it turns out, perhaps, Prada can do some wrong? Or perhaps Miuccia can, because Miu Miu 2024 RTW was absolutely horrendous.
Thanks xx
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